![]() ![]() It sounds like a communication problem between the cars software and the Wall Charger, maybe due to the adapter, maybe not. I really doubt this could damage the battery, it's just AC 240V which is what the car is expecting and knows what to do with it. You can find the instructions to do this by Googling the owner's manual for your model of Wall Connector. Destination chargers are how Tesla refers to their Wall Connectors installed in public places such as hotels, restaurants and car parks. You might try setting it to a slightly lower value and see if your problem goes away. If you are there when the fault happens, just feel the charge plug/adapter and see if the thermocouple might have detected excessive heat (probably due to resistance between the plug and adapeter or adapter and the car's charge port).Īlso, there is a setting inside the Wall Connector to determine maximum charge amperage. If it gets too warm, the Wall Connector will sense that and shut off to prevent fire or melting. There is a thermocouple in the business end of the charge cable. I'm familiar with version II but I bet version III has many of the same features. Which version of the Tesla Wall Connector are you using? AFAIK, there are 3 versions. Obviously, you cannot live long term with this situation, as you need to trust the car will charge to your desired percentage. The other thing I can think of is if you get the opportunity, test with the TeslaTap with another Wall Connector or a Destination Charger (some destination chargers are on 208V, so it is not an exact test). Unfortunately until Ford send an update that will allow dialing down the amps in the car and/or fixes the sensitivity issue it will not go away. Your testing with the Model 3, seems to point to the Mach-E being sensitive to something the Model 3 is not. When I charge the Model 3 it usually shows as 243 to 245 volts coming from the Tesla Wall Connector, so my Mach-E handles the slightly higher voltage with 48 amps and no charging faults so far So far I have been successful charging the Mach-E using the TeslaTap using both scheduled charging and charging immediately. If they have a Tesla, great! If they have something else, just buy a $400 J1772 charger and pay a sparky $100 to install it.The only question I have, is have you been waiting at least 30 seconds after attaching the TeslaTap to the Tesla Wall Connector before connecting the J1772 end to the Mach-E? I read this in the TeslaTap website to do this so I make sure I have been doing this every time. Then I'd advertise the place as having renter's choice of EV charger. If it were me- I'd just install the Tesla charger as hardwired with the max amperage the electrical panel can spare. ![]() Then you can easily swap chargers by yourself without needing an electrician. That's enough to feed either a Wall Connector or a J1772 charger. What you could do is have your electrician install a NEMA 14-50 outlet (50 amps 240v). ![]() Point is, you can easily swap the Tesla charger for something else later. The charger is about $400-$500 for either a Tesla Wall Connector or garden variety J1772 240v charger (lots of companies make them). From there any electrician can install or swap the actual charger in 20 minutes. The bulk of the 'installation cost' is wiring from the electric panel to the EV charger. That said, I don't think you need worry too much. Tesla to J1772 isn't officially supported by anybody, but there are adapters that people claim do work well. J1772 to Tesla is officially supported by Tesla and most cars come with the adapter. You can adapt between J1772 and Tesla, in both directions. For Level 2 charging (240v AC, as you do in a home), there's two connections- Tesla (used by Tesla alone) and J1772 (used by everybody else). ![]()
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